Follow Suit

In a world bloated with fast fashion, you need to look a bit harder for that increasingly elusive blend of craftmanship and true style. The Forumist found it on a quiet street in London’s soho, in the workshop and fitting rooms of tailor Mark Powell

The London-based, self-taught tailor Mark Powell is an icon in his field. Having started out in the late 1970s, working for Washington Tremlett on Conduit Street, Mayfair, and learning from some of the best, he opened his own shop in 1985, just a few streets away in Soho. With his pioneering approach, he soon became known for his combination of craftsmanship and style. Over the three decades since his doors opened, an impressive list of clients has walked through them, including celebrities such as George Clooney, Harrison Ford, David Bowie, George Michael, the Olympic cyclist Sir Bradley Wiggins and Hobbit actor Martin Freeman.

 

 

Powell has, since the start, maintained a consistent sartorial vision, steadfastly resisting the distraction of seasonal trends and short-term solutions. He describes his way of doing things as diverse, but still featuring an unmistakable signature look. In his work, he always strives to get the right balance, using historical, classic features and then adding a modern edge to the mix. The result is timeless design that stands out with impeccable cuts and elegant details. “Some of the old-school tailoring elements that we see trending today are what I have been doing for the past 30 years,” says Powell. “Tailoring is a way of expressing individual style. And style, again, is your individual expression.” That word – “style”. Powell maintains it’s not something that can just be bought. He sees many examples of very rich people who don’t seem to be able to hit the mark and, conversely, “there are some very humble people who have a great sense of style”.

Thanks to his eye for detail and the bold elements of his design, Powell is one of the few bespoke tailors in London who can also cater for the younger generation, too. Some have been referred to him by their fathers, who in some cases have been his clients for decades.

Powell also makes women’s suits – clients for these have included Naomi Campbell, Bianca Jagger and Keira Knightley, stars who are all known for their public appearances in effortlessly chic outfits. While a women’s suit can obviously create a somewhat androgynous look, Powell is keen to point out the importance of still making it look feminine and sexy, something he more than succeeds in achieving.

 

 

Thanks to his eye for detail and the bold elements of his design, Powell is one of the few bespoke tailors in London who can also cater for the younger generation, too. Some have been referred to him by their fathers, who in some cases have been his clients for decades.

Powell also makes women’s suits – clients for these have included Naomi Campbell, Bianca Jagger and Keira Knightley, stars who are all known for their public appearances in effortlessly chic outfits. While a women’s suit can obviously create a somewhat androgynous look, Powell is keen to point out the importance of still making it look feminine and sexy, something he more than succeeds in achieving.

 

 

The relationship between a tailor and his clients is an intimate one. After all, your tailor is one of the few who will know your body the best – the shape of it, at least. Therefore the human connection between two such people – the tailor and the client – is of great importance and requires a lot of personal involvement. Most of Powell’s customers are returning clients, with some of them having up to 25-30 of his suits hanging in their wardrobes. He quickly learns to anticipate what they would like to wear and they know that he will be able to provide it, every time. Over the years, many customers have also become good friends. “The other day a client came in and asked me to dress him for his second wedding. Of course, I did the first one, too,” he says with a smile.

With quality as one of his core values, Powell prefers working with genuine modern English fabrics, those with a bit of body, such as tweed and cotton. All the bespoke garments come to life in his Soho workshop and Powell is always personally involved in the measuring and fitting, as well as in the sessions for alterations. This kind of engagement is not to be taken for granted among the London high-end tailors, but for Powell it’s a natural part of his process: “I love what I do!” And that is probably why he is where he is today.

 

 

Since Powell opened up his first atelier, the corporate climate in central London has become a lot tougher. Factors such as global market trends, international apparel conglomerations and rocketing rents in the area have been making things difficult for shop owners, especially for the smaller independents. “Saturdays are not what they used to be,” says Powell. Thankfully, though, he is determined to carry on doing business as he always has: without compromising on service or quality. And we would love him to do so – for ever. In the fast-paced digitally centred society of today, it is comforting and inspiring to be reminded of the beauty and importance of craftsmanship and individuality. And to see style and creativity challenge marketing-driven mass production and high-street fashion. Undoubtedly, that’s a challenge for the win.

 

 

Credits:

Words by Johanna Bergström

Images courtesy Mark Powell