Do you still remember jukeboxes? These wonder machines that would play anything from a broad collection of tunes, if you just inserted a coin? Stockholm Fashion Week reminds me a bit of their mechanism. With quick shifts of moods and melodies, the collections presented the last three days still spin in my head like songs from a good old disco night. Let me try to sort out the best tracks for you!
The first one to bring the musical vibe to their fashion show were the designers behind Minimarket. With a daring title ‘’So You Think You Can Dance’’, the brand challenged for a moves’ competition. Sparkling textiles, electrifying makeup in neon colours and fringy silhouettes drew inspiration from old Swedish dance bands and TV talent shows. The energy of the show, with a great casting of interesting models and punky styling, definitely had something of an urban night-out. Interesting details, such as rhinestone collars slipping all the way down models’ slender backs and intriguing apiarist’s hats made the look bold. The live performance of a Swedish singer Jenny Wilson spiced up the whole presentation and turned it on with a strong finish. All in all, Minimarket may have not talked me into a crazy rock’n’roll night, but definitely played some melodies that would be a good starter for a more sophisticated evening with chilled electronics.
The party’s just begun! The second day brought up the real deal. Cheap Monday kidnapped the fancy fashion audience and took it all the way to an industrial area off the central Stockholm. Let me just sum it up in a few words: warehouse rave on mushrooms. The show was so full of psychedelic references that I could not stop the train of thoughts; is it Alice in Wonderland of the neon era? Is it a post-hippie apocalypse ? Is it a play on Andy Warhol’s Factory? Is it an underground hackers’ society? As ghostly models wrapped in towels, grotesque long denim trousers and ragged straw hats wondered around in the forest of fluorescent toadstools, my mind flew higher and higher. Known for its whimsical collections’ staging, Cheap Moday once again sold a story and some pretty intriguing, yet very wearable clothes. I can definitely see Scandinavian youngsters sporting the androgynous, hobo-chic look in the upcoming months. Myself I would go for the short jacket in white denim with a long, tentacle-like, piece of material knotted by the belly button. Shorts with fringes all the way to the floor would fit the look.
Waking up from the radiant dream served by Cheap Monday was quite a challenge, but the last day of the fashion feast couldn’t be missed. And it was also the most exciting one. Ida Klamborn, who presented a well developed collection with some nice colourful details and Diana Orving’s light show with a zen vibe, set out on the roof scenery, were strong points of the programme. But my heart was stolen by the much more extravagant presentations. Students from The Swedish School of Textiles in Borås finally did what I was waiting for the whole time: the WOW! moment. A kaleidoscope of unrestrained creativity was truly mesmerising.
p>From all the 22 exam collections presented, one could define some recurring topics of young designers’ fascination. Martin Margiela’s deconstruction school was highly represented- the one that interpreted it best was definitely Alva Johansson in her ‘’Bodydress’’. If a designer is able to make a hole in a crotch of her tights look sexy, it’s clearly the one to observe! Josefin Runquist, awarded the Lindex prize for young fashion adepts, played with the magic of the presentation with her enormous plastic bag cape floating through the catwalk. She pulled out the most mature collection, combining the excellent execution, commercial potential and innovative ideas. John- Daniel Isacsson managed to convince me to move into his ‘’Disruptive Mayhem’’. His oversized bomber jacket and metallic capes could be worn both by Björk and hip-hop stars. ‘’Surfaced Print’’ by Camilla Arnbert deserves to be mentioned for its excellent work with textile and Dries Van Noten feel.
The three days of Stockholm Fashion Week filled me in with impressions, visions and sounds. Now the only thing left is to create a playlist on the jukebox – and let the vibe live a little bit longer.
Credits:
Words by Weronika Pérez Borjas