If we had to sum up Stockholm Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 in one word it would be “new” – new in terms of designers as well as venues.
The schedule revealed another two fixed locations in addition to Berns, where most of the shows have been based previously. Berns ultimately still holds the card as the most impressive out of the three, with its grand setting and glistening chandeliers. Stockholms Auktionsverk and The Black Box meanwhile left a bit to be desired, being little more than an empty space to show a collection in, though on the other hand the clothes then got to speak for themselves.
If the main venues seemed somewhat uninspired, there were some shows where live performances took it up a notch or two. While their Danish neighbours may have focused on custom locations and eye-catching installations to set the mood, the Swedes instead threw some spectacular live performances into the fashion week mix. One of the most memorable was Diana Orving, who gave the crowds goose bumps as she presented her feminine, billowing collection with the help of dancers from the Stockholm 59 North company, walking on point up and down the catwalk to Alexander Ekman’s choreography.
Nellie Kamras’ leather brand STAND moved onto the catwalk this season, and went on to prove that anything truly works in leather – feminine dresses and cool biker jackets alike. Greta Gram presented cool Scandi minimalism, and a very high-end touch of glamour took centre stage with Fadi el Khoury’s beautifully crafted couture-like pieces.
With several of the established Swedish designer names absent from the SS17 schedule, new up and comers got the chance to shine, and they added a welcome diversity to the line up. This uplifting focus on the new generation was clear from the very first show of fashion week as The Swedish School of Textiles were given the honour of being the opening show.
Menswear made a stronger mark than usual with CMMN SWDN presenting cool contemporary menswear that included everything from relaxed to sharp suiting, mesh vests and earthy hues.
L’HOMME ROUGE, which means the red man, succeeded in both design and location, even their “guerilla” style posters on bus stops around town added to the feel of the brand. Red symbolizes the heart, warmth and force. This is about following your passions and being a kind-hearted person to others. We look forward to their first flagship store on Södermalm opening soon.
The 90s trend spotted at Copenhagen Fashion Week is clear to see in Stockholm as well. Sporty drawstring detailing worked its way into designs from Greta Gram, STAND and Ida Klamborn. Nhorm took it a step further, channeling a hybrid of MTV music videos and Clueless, with tartan skirts, crop-tops, sparkly shoes, sneakers and tracksuit inspired trousers.
Pleats were plentiful, fine, soft and silky. Often in head to toe looks including everything from tops, to skirts, trousers and dresses that could easily work both day and night.
Danish and Swedish runways are in tune with the colour scheme for the coming summer. Neutral hues, black, white and light blue are broken up by popping elements of yellows, reds, and greens, while pink continues to cast its soft spell on us for yet another season.
CREDITS:
Words by Beatrice Trodden
L’HOMME ROUGE notes by Anna Åhrén
Pictures by Mathias Nordgren
FASHION CREDITS:
1 – 3 Diana Orving
4 – 6 STAND
7 – 18 Swedish School of Texiles
19 – 21 CMMN SWDN
22 – 25 L’HOMME ROUGE
26 – 28 Ida Klamborn
29 & 30 Nhorm